Chicken Buses!

Over the weeks, we have been making our way around Central America using various forms of transport: walking, shuttles, a taxi, boats, our friend Maria's car, and one long distance, 16 hour bus ride. However, the most thrilling and interesting form of travel that we have had the pleasure to experience is the chicken bus. Chicken buses are old U.S. Blue Bird school buses that have found their way into Central America and are used for local transport. They have then been modified with the addition of extra bars for standing passengers, a roof rack for luggage, a ladder for climbing onto the roof and a sweet paint job with occasional chrome touches. I am going to try to convey to you the excitement and chaos that is the chicken bus experience.

First of all, there are two key players in any chicken bus experience: the driver and the ayudante (helper). The driver's job seems to be to drive as fast as possible with what appears to be little concern for the rules of the road (which are very limited). They pass in no passing zones on curvy mountain roads and take corners at breakneck speeds. Even the drivers often have to grab something to brace themselves when they take a corner. Overall, they are pretty aggressive. This does lead to the occasional accident. In fact, while trying to cross traffic, one of our drivers pushed forward into the side of a small car. He didn't see it, yet acted as if it wasn't his fault. It caused us quite a delay in reaching our destination. Although I don't think it's true, Tim thinks they are called chicken buses because they often drive into oncoming traffic and force fellow drivers into a game of chicken. I think it's just because people sometimes bring livestock onto the buses. At any rate, the drivers are kind of maniacs.

A no passing sign that apparently does not apply to chicken buses (or to anyone, really):

The ayudante has a different role on the bus. He is the person who stands next to the driver and often sticks half his body out of the open bus door in order to look out for potential passengers. Chicken buses have set routes; however, they will stop anywhere and for anyone along these routes. The ayudante waves to people on the side of the road and if the people wave back, the bus stops and the people pile on. At scheduled stops, the ayudante jumps off the bus and repeatedly shouts the destination "Xela Xela Xela Xela". He is also in charge of the luggage - he climbs up onto the roof to secure and retrieve luggage. The bus will often start off before the ayudante is back in the bus. If he is on the ground, he will run and jump in. If he is on the roof, he will climb down the ladder as the bus runs at break neck speeds and often enter through the back emergency exit. He will also climb up before a stop to get luggage ready for departing passengers. The ayudante also collects the fare from all passengers. The thing that really amazed us was that they had such amazing memories. They remember who has paid (they collect fares at regular intervals, but the passengers are constantly changing), who has luggage to be brought off the roof and amazingly, who might need assistance to get off at a stop. We had one ayudante who annouced a stop and then brought out a step because he rememebered that a little old lady needed help getting down. It is impressive.

Here is an ayudante securing luggage to the roof:

We often boarded chicken buses at the start of their routes. The main hub for the buses is always behind the city's main market. As you enter this market area, you are approached by a man who asks where you are going and then rushes you to your bus. They are always rushing you, even if the bus isn't leaving right away. You hand over your bag, which is thrown onto the roof and then you board the bus. There is no maximum capacity for these buses and people get quite squeezed in. There are often 3-4 to a seat and sometimes people standing. We spent one bus ride very squished next to a young man who eventually managed to fall asleep on Tim's shoulder.

The chicken bus depot:

Just when you think it can't get any more crowded on the bus, the hawkers board the bus to offer their goods: refreshments, warm stuffed chiles, ice cream, gum, the newspaper, fried chicken, fruit, etc. Tim bought french fries on one of our chicken bus adventures. The vendors all get off the bus before it takes off but it is not your last opportunity to buy goods. Since the buses stop for anyone, they often end up picking up vendors along the way. They board and then often very dramatically explain why it is you need to buy their miracle product. There are also women who board and sell food along the way. We watched one driver stufff his face with 4 tacos while taking hairpin turns. At least at that point he had put down his cell phone.

As you can tell, it is a very chaotic experience but it is filled with color and you get to see a nice cross section of society (and very up close, may I add). We were often the only non-locals on the bus so we were sometimes stared at, but that just added to the fun. Is it the most comfortable way to travel? By no means. However, it is quite a thrilling ride!