Nicaragua - The Maria Adventures (part 1)

Well, after over a month of traveling through Guatemala, it's time to move on. Next up, you guessed it, Nicaragua. To get to Nicaragua, we had quite the day of travel. Wake up at 1:30 in the morning(and yes, we did go to bed. early, in fact. as always.) and hop into a private shuttle(only private because who the hell else decides it's time to change countries at that hour?!), then get onto a coach bus for the next 16 hours. It's a hell of a long time to be on a bus, but the seats were super nice. They reclined pretty far back, and there were foot rests to put out, so we were able to get a little sleep. Correction, I was able to sleep. Also, to pass the time, they showed a few movies. First was Vertical Leap(terrible movie about mountain climbing), then Never Back Down(terrible movie about street fighting), and the grand finale was a straight to video Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen thriller about youth soccer!! (Luckily it was dubbed in Spanish, so I didn't have to listen to their whiny voices!)

The trip consisted of crossing into El Salvador in the morning, where the border cross was pretty quick and easy. Then moving into Honduras after a few hours, where the border cross was equally easy. (We didn't even have to get our of our seats. Though, it would have been nice!) Then, finally into Nicaragua, where we all had to unload from the bus, and open all of our luggage to be checked by customs. This took about an hour for the whole bus, even though the check was mostly just a glance.

Anyway, by 10 pm we arrived at the bus station in Managua, Nicaragua!!!! (Upon the purchase of the trip, we were told we would arrive by 6 pm. Another guy we met on the bus was told he'd be in by 4:30! Anyway, I predicted 8 pm, and was still waaay off.)

After all that, the last thing we wanted was to have to get a taxi and find a hostel. Good thing our Savior, Maria, was there to meet us at the bus station, and drive us to her parents house in Managua. Maria totally understood how we felt after a bus trip like that, because within the last year, she went on a similar trip through the Americas. In fact, the pictures of her trip may have been the final tipping point that made us decide to go on this adventure.

Below is a picture of our great and wonderful friend.

So, upon arriving to her home, we met her wonderful mother Yalile (yah -lee-lay) and father Justi (who-stee). We were also shown to room which would become ours for our stay, with a full, private, bathroom. This is a big deal, because in hostels, the bathroom is generally down the hall, and who knows who or what is in them. Even though we were quite tired, we sat up for a little and had a beer with Maria and her parents, while rocking away in their very comfortable rocking chairs. They have six rocking chairs in their living room. They seem to be quite popular in Nicaragua.

The next morning, after a good night's rest, we were provided an excellent breakfast of an organic turkey egg, accompanied with a dish called gallo pinto. Gallo pinto is an excellent combination of red beans and rice, cooked with love by Yalile, and quite filling.

After breakfast, Maria decided to give us the driving tour of Managua.

Here we are out on a pier over Lake Managua. In the background is Momotombo Volcano.

It was a bit of a whirlwind tour that gave us a little feel of Managua, but also brief, as we still wanted to rest up a bit.

Well, Maria is quite the planner, and she arranged to go to a beach house (shack really, but on a beach nonetheless) with some of her friends. So the next day, we piled into an air conditioned truck, scooped up her friends, and headed out. Here is Laura and I immediately upon arriving. Don't we look so happy/smug?! This is the first glimpse of the ocean on our trip, so we were very excited.

Why waste time? Laura and Maria have cracked a few, and are ready to relax.

Below is a picture of what we would become our sleeping quarters. Hammocks provided by Maria's incredible planning skills. She also hung them for us, as we are helpless without her.

The shack is on a hill overlooking the beach, so we decided to take the party a little closer.

It was a good time of the night, and we were provided with a really enjoyable sunset.

We didn't want to leave the beach, but we couldn't see. So, we decided it was time for a fire.

As speaking Spanish is not one of my strong points, but making fires is, I finally felt like a contributing force. Below, like a true boy scout, I play with the fire.

Once the tide went out, small pools of water were left along the shore. Here our fire is reflected in one of them. Another really fun thing about the tide pools were that they were full of algae that glows in the dark due to some mysterious chemical reaction. When agitated, the water sparkled. It provided us with hours of fun. (We honestly did spend over an hour kicking through the water. After a few beers, the novelty of the event does not wear off quickly)

After falling asleep for an hour or so on the beach, we relocated to our beds for the night. As Laura is getting ready, I'm pretty much already asleep. And wearing my sunglasses at night.

The next morning, since I had hit the hay a little earlier than most, I was up early. Hammocks aren't the most comfortable beds to be found, so I decided to get out of it and take a walk on the beach. I walked perhaps a quarter of a mile down the beach, took some photos, and drew in the sand. I was getting bored by myself, so I thought I would go back to see if anyone was now awake. I turned away from the water, and no more than 20 feet away, spotted a crab!! I was so excited! When I was facing the water, I don't think he cared how close we were to each other, but when I turned and faced him, he froze. The previous night, we spotted one or two smaller crabs, and they ran from us, so I proceeded with caution.

I made big circles around him to avoid scaring him away. But once I felt that I had documented this event sufficiently with photos, I crept closer. He still didn't move. I chuckled a bit as we faced one another, his pinchers outstretched in front of him. It was as if he was waiting for me to make the first move, which I did, but he didn't react. A one way duel. I moved closer, and couldn't help looking around to see if anyone had by chance come down. Nope. No one to help me catch him, as this was now my main objective.

Getting closer still, I noticed that he began to lean back with every step I took. I continued, and he slowly leaned farther, until, finally, I was so close to him, that he fell over on to his back!!

I've never actually confused crabs with intelligent life, but this was too much! Face to face with (as far as he knew) a possible hostile life form, he literally rolled over. Wow.

Clearly, this was my opportunity to have some fun with my new friend. So, I scooped him up with a piece of driftwood, and carried him back to show off. Only Maria and Laura were awake, and they were extremely impressed. (Except that they weren't really at all.)

There was a beer can still sitting out, and I couldn't pass up this photo op. I had ideas to put him next to all sorts of things and take photos, but as I was the only person excited by this, I returned him to his natural habitat. When I put him down, the dummy was still petrified and wouldn't move. You'd think that after all I put him through, he would be ready to flee.

I like to pinch!!! Maybe a little pinch?!?

Here's a photo of Laura standing in front of the tide pools which provided us with the sparks of light.

It was an excellent first encounter with the Pacific ocean. We hope to do this much more in the very near future.

The day after our adventure on the beach, we went to the movies. Avatar had just come out, and we were anxious to see it. Here in the parking lot, is an enormous tree that we began calling the "Home Tree". We are too funny for our own good.

But actually, the tree in itself is quite neat. When this site was being developed to be paved and a parking lot created, it was decided that this tree was just too precious to destroy. Thus, it has become a fixture of the lot. Saving trees within developments. What a novel idea.

Next day, our lovely tour guide had more plans for us. Here we are at a lookout point over volcano Masaya. It is really just a smoking hole in the ground, but there are many great views to take in.

The hole. With smoke.

There were some nice hiking trails to explore, even if it meant ignoring caution.

The cross in the distance is where we were standing in the first photo. It signifies the location where a certain Nicaraguan regime executed dissenters by hurling them into the volcano. Brutal.

Maria is looking over a nearby lagoon, with another volcano in the distance. I think it's Mombacho.

After the volcano, we were driving along, and I spotted this. There was something ironic that I don't think I have seen elsewhere. The brown horse is grazing in the middle of a roundabout. The white one, next to a gas station. Neither is tied up, and we saw them a short time later in the middle of the road. The real kicker is that this road is very busy and full of traffic.

Maria's mom packed us some lunches, and with a lack of nice picnic areas, we decided to just pull over and eat in the back of the truck.

Laura eats as highway traffic buzzes by.

Our last stop for the day was to Catarina, a lookout point over Laguna de Apoyo.

There was a small market as well, where we had a little fun with hats.

Maria sure keeps us busy!

To be continued....

Chicken Buses!

Over the weeks, we have been making our way around Central America using various forms of transport: walking, shuttles, a taxi, boats, our friend Maria's car, and one long distance, 16 hour bus ride. However, the most thrilling and interesting form of travel that we have had the pleasure to experience is the chicken bus. Chicken buses are old U.S. Blue Bird school buses that have found their way into Central America and are used for local transport. They have then been modified with the addition of extra bars for standing passengers, a roof rack for luggage, a ladder for climbing onto the roof and a sweet paint job with occasional chrome touches. I am going to try to convey to you the excitement and chaos that is the chicken bus experience.

First of all, there are two key players in any chicken bus experience: the driver and the ayudante (helper). The driver's job seems to be to drive as fast as possible with what appears to be little concern for the rules of the road (which are very limited). They pass in no passing zones on curvy mountain roads and take corners at breakneck speeds. Even the drivers often have to grab something to brace themselves when they take a corner. Overall, they are pretty aggressive. This does lead to the occasional accident. In fact, while trying to cross traffic, one of our drivers pushed forward into the side of a small car. He didn't see it, yet acted as if it wasn't his fault. It caused us quite a delay in reaching our destination. Although I don't think it's true, Tim thinks they are called chicken buses because they often drive into oncoming traffic and force fellow drivers into a game of chicken. I think it's just because people sometimes bring livestock onto the buses. At any rate, the drivers are kind of maniacs.

A no passing sign that apparently does not apply to chicken buses (or to anyone, really):

The ayudante has a different role on the bus. He is the person who stands next to the driver and often sticks half his body out of the open bus door in order to look out for potential passengers. Chicken buses have set routes; however, they will stop anywhere and for anyone along these routes. The ayudante waves to people on the side of the road and if the people wave back, the bus stops and the people pile on. At scheduled stops, the ayudante jumps off the bus and repeatedly shouts the destination "Xela Xela Xela Xela". He is also in charge of the luggage - he climbs up onto the roof to secure and retrieve luggage. The bus will often start off before the ayudante is back in the bus. If he is on the ground, he will run and jump in. If he is on the roof, he will climb down the ladder as the bus runs at break neck speeds and often enter through the back emergency exit. He will also climb up before a stop to get luggage ready for departing passengers. The ayudante also collects the fare from all passengers. The thing that really amazed us was that they had such amazing memories. They remember who has paid (they collect fares at regular intervals, but the passengers are constantly changing), who has luggage to be brought off the roof and amazingly, who might need assistance to get off at a stop. We had one ayudante who annouced a stop and then brought out a step because he rememebered that a little old lady needed help getting down. It is impressive.

Here is an ayudante securing luggage to the roof:

We often boarded chicken buses at the start of their routes. The main hub for the buses is always behind the city's main market. As you enter this market area, you are approached by a man who asks where you are going and then rushes you to your bus. They are always rushing you, even if the bus isn't leaving right away. You hand over your bag, which is thrown onto the roof and then you board the bus. There is no maximum capacity for these buses and people get quite squeezed in. There are often 3-4 to a seat and sometimes people standing. We spent one bus ride very squished next to a young man who eventually managed to fall asleep on Tim's shoulder.

The chicken bus depot:

Just when you think it can't get any more crowded on the bus, the hawkers board the bus to offer their goods: refreshments, warm stuffed chiles, ice cream, gum, the newspaper, fried chicken, fruit, etc. Tim bought french fries on one of our chicken bus adventures. The vendors all get off the bus before it takes off but it is not your last opportunity to buy goods. Since the buses stop for anyone, they often end up picking up vendors along the way. They board and then often very dramatically explain why it is you need to buy their miracle product. There are also women who board and sell food along the way. We watched one driver stufff his face with 4 tacos while taking hairpin turns. At least at that point he had put down his cell phone.

As you can tell, it is a very chaotic experience but it is filled with color and you get to see a nice cross section of society (and very up close, may I add). We were often the only non-locals on the bus so we were sometimes stared at, but that just added to the fun. Is it the most comfortable way to travel? By no means. However, it is quite a thrilling ride!

Lake Atitlan

After our stay at the coffee farm and a bit more time in Xela, we hopped on yet another chicken bus and made our way to Lake Atitlan. Lake Atitlan is an incredibly beautiful, quite large lake surrounded by volcanoes. It is gorgeous and is one of Guatemala's prime tourist attractions. Unfortunately, due to pollution, there was a recent cyanobacteria bloom that covered 40% of the lake in a brown and green toxic goo. The lake had been generally fine before, but one city on the lake had its sewage treatment plant blown out in their last hurricane and they could not afford to repair it so the city dumped the sewage in the lake. It is a shame. It is going to take years for it to recover.

People had told us not to go to the lake, that we would get rashes from the water and that it smelled bad. I had been pretty excited to see this place so we went anyway, undeterred. I am super glad we did! With the "cooler" weather (80s), the bacteria had sunk into the lake and it looked pretty clean when we arrived. We decided we wouldn't want to swim in it or anything but it was a pretty sparkly blue when we got there. The scenery was unbeatable!

Our trusty chicken bus dropped us at a larger lakeside city and we took a boat over to our destination city: San Pedro La Laguna. Here I am ready to board our craft and cross the mildly toxic waters.

Below is the approach to San Pedro La Laguna.

At the docks, we were approached by a man who told us he would show us a room with a private bath for 30 Quetzales per person per night ($3.75). We followed him to "Casa Rolando". It was nice enough but what really sold us were the lake views. Tim couldn't get into the hammock fast enough!

We will always remember "Casa Rolando" because after settling into our room, we were approached by a man with a fine mustache who said "Hola. Soy Rolando y estan en casa Rolando." ("Hi. I am Rolando and you are in Casa Rolando.") Maybe you had to be there but it was pretty funny the way he said it so matter of factly. Anyway, we had a nice night's rest in Casa Rolando and the next morning, we took a little walk around the town. They have a combination of paved roads and dirt walking paths around San Pedro so it makes for fun exploring!

People grow small crops of coffee and corn on the lake's edge. They had a central coffee processing station and we walked by coffee drying on the side of the roads. We felt so well educated from our coffee tour!

Total Random Aside: You may be wondering how we are getting in the Christmas spirit in a much warmer, less snowy climate than usual. Well, wonder no more! Poinsettias grow naturally in Mexico and Central America! (maybe elsewhere too, but we've only made it as far as Nicaragua so far)

And people decorate for Christmas!

We went kayaking one morning and even though water splashed on my legs, I did NOT get a rash. Whoo! What a relief!

There were many fine restaurants in San Pedro and we enjoyed them fully! This place also showed movies for free in the evenings. It was a fun way to pass the evenings.

Yummy chocolate crepes!

We ended up going to the same place for breakfast almost every day. I know that's not very adventurous of us but the next couple of photos illustrate why Nick's was the place for us (English name but locally owned - we asked before eating there):

#1 This was the view from the restaurant's dining deck.

#2 This breakfast cost us $2.50. There's a pancake under all that fruit and yogurt! The scrambled eggs were delectable!

One thing about San Pedro is that lots of tourists flock to it because it is a pretty nice place to visit. In turn, the local economy depends on tourists to make a living. Because of the bad publicity the lake received with their little bacteria problem, many people were staying away from Lake Atitlan. One man told me it was down 40%. Because there were so few tourists, we got to know some of the sellers who made their way through the restaurants. We bought woven bracelets from this girl.

Below is our friend, Jose. We met him on the first day we arrived when he offered to sell us banana bread. We weren't interested at the time but he introduced himself, asked our names and made us promise we would only buy bread from him. We saw him daily. He would come to our table, sit down and start chatting away before casually slipping in that he had bread for sale. At one restaurant, he informed us the next day was his 10th birthday. Whether that was true or just a way to get the gringos to buy bread from him, we will never know. We didn't care. The bread was delicious! We got to know him pretty well over the days. Sometimes we shared our breakfast with him. He once hinted that he wanted us to buy him a lemonade by telling us he had never tried it before. He is a bright little kid and born salesman and we were concerned that he was out working and not in school but we later learned from someone in the community that he does attend school. They just have a break in November and December and he earns extra money for his family during that time.

We did leave San Pedro for one night in order to check out another town on the lake and to do yoga. It was nice but we were pulled back to San Pedro. We decided to check out a different hostel this time. Casa Rolando was great and all but we wanted to be on the water. Here's what we got at Villa del Lago, our "new" hostel:

Our room is on the far right

We had unobstructed views of the lake and village life that centers on the water. The women wash their clothes in the lake. It's not good for the lake's health (or their's to be standing in it for hours on end, beating their clothes against the rocks) but they have few other options.

Children also enjoyed swimming and bathing there in the afternoons.

I enjoyed reading by the water's edge.

On one of our last evenings, we treated ourselves to a bottle of wine.

Also, since we didn't want to swim in the lake, we spent an afternoon at the pool. It was fantastic!

Lake Atitlan was a very special, beautiful place. We would highly recommend that you go check it out, even with the water quality issue. There are amazing views, gracious people, guided hikes and horseback riding, yoga, massage, kayaking and boat tours of the whole lake. It's a bit of Guatemalan paradise and I'm glad we didn't listen to those telling us not to bother.